A DIY cabinet refresh can cost just a few hundred dollars. In contrast, new cabinets can run from several thousand dollars for basic stock options to $20,000 or more for custom work, not including demo, delivery, and installation cost.

This refinishing kit is perfect if:

• Cabinet boxes are stable and doors open and close properly
• You like your kitchen layout but not the color or finish
• You want a high-impact update without a full remodel budget

Yes. Once properly applied and fully cured, DWIL Cabinet Paint is designed to handle normal everyday cabinet use, including frequent opening, wiping, and occasional splashes.

For high-wear areas such as cabinet edges, drawer fronts, and around handles, we recommend adding a compatible clear protective topcoat for extra protection. Make sure the paint is fully dry before applying the topcoat.

For most sound cabinet surfaces, you can skip the full sand-and-prime routine. DWIL's all-in-one formula is designed to simplify prep, but cleaning is still essential—especially on kitchen cabinets where grease and cooking residue can interfere with adhesion.

If the old finish is peeling, damaged, or heavily contaminated, fix those areas before painting.

Yes. Oak has a naturally open, textured grain, so its grain pattern may still be visible after painting, especially with light colors. This paint changes the cabinet color, but it does not automatically fill deep grain.

It's possible. On oak and other stain-prone woods, natural tannins, old stain, knots, or surface contaminants can sometimes bleed through white or light paint. This leaves ugly yellow, brown, or reddish spots on your new finish.

To help prevent bleed-through, use a compatible stain-blocking primer on raw, dark, red-toned, knotty, or previously stained wood before painting. If discoloration appears after your test area dries, stop and seal the surface before applying more paint.

This paint can refresh the color, but it is not designed to reliably block wood tannins or persistent stains.

Not recommend. Stain, varnish, polyurethane, and other clear finishes can create a slick barrier that prevents paint from bonding properly.

For the most reliable result, remove or fully prepare the existing finish before painting. If the old finish is peeling, damaged, or very glossy, additional prep may be needed before applying the new paint.

Use this paint on cabinet surfaces where the paint will contact real wood. The cabinet core can be solid wood, plywood, MDF, particleboard, or another engineered material—as long as the outer paint surface is genuine wood or real wood veneer.

Works great on:

• Solid wood doors, frames, and panels
• Plywood, MDF, or particleboard with a real wood veneer
• Real wood IKEA doors (like solid pine or oak/birch/ash veneer, e.g., TORNVIKEN, HEMNES)

Do not apply directly to plastic laminate, melamine, paper foil, faux-wood film, or other synthetic outer finishes.

Not recommended. Cabinets take much more daily wear than walls. They're constantly opened, closed, wiped, bumped, and exposed to grease or moisture. A dedicated cabinet paint is better suited to these high-touch surfaces.

DWIL Cabinet Paint is formulated for cabinets, with smooth flow and leveling to help create a more even, durable finish on doors, drawers, frames, and trim.

One 1 kg kit covers approximately 50 sq. ft. with 2 coats. Your total coverage depends on how many surfaces you plan to paint and how many coats your project requires.

Include:

• Cabinet doors and drawer fronts
• Cabinet frames and face frames
• Exposed end panels and toe kicks
• Both sides of doors if you want
• Any shelves or cabinet interiors you choose to paint

For a lasting, even finish, plan your purchase around the number of coats recommended in the current product instructions—not just the floor size of your kitchen. Dark-to-light color changes, open-grain wood, detailed doors, and porous surfaces may require more paint.